Boss Pedal Serial Number

2021年6月18日
Download here: http://gg.gg/v1pcu
Trying to work out if your Japanese DS-1 is from 1978 or 1985? Looking to sell your 80’s CE-2 and want to list it as accurately as possible? Here’s our cheat-sheet for understanding your Boss serial number and how some of the systems work!
The trick with BOSS pedals is that at the time of this serial scheme’s turnaround, they were only using a basic 4-digit version of these numbers - 9400 for May 1980, 7800 for January 1979, and then 0500 for April 1981. All the versions of the Fulltone OCD may be recognized by their serial number or, in case of the version 2, by the look of the pedal. Fulltone stated that there was always one version of the OCD because the changes made to the pedal over the time were always so small that it was not possible to speak of a version 2, 3, 4, etc.
Types of serial:
There are THREE main serial number sequences used for Japanese Boss pedals.
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#1 - Stamped Batch Code (4-5 Digits).
Located above the switch inside the battery compartment, these codes are stamped directly to the enclosure using black ink (or white ink on darker pedals like the SG-1). The first batch of Boss pedals were made in October, 1977 and featured the code 6300 for the whole month of production. The second month (November, 1977) were labelled 6400, the third (December, 1977) were 6500 and so on. This system continued all the way through to around April, 1981 at 10500 (or sometimes just 0500).
As these were just batch codes and not specific serial numbers, they are not unique to the pedal and you will often see two of the same (or different) pedals with identical numbers.
For a quick reference, here’s where certain years start and finish with this format:
6300 - 6500 = 1977
6600 - 7700 = 1978
7800 - 8900 = 1979
9000 - 10100 = 1980
10200 - 10500 = 1981Boss Pedal Serial Number Dating
#2 - Stickered Serials (6 Digits)
The second serial number system started around the same time that the batch codes ended. The number moved to a sticker inside the battery compartment (under where the battery would sit) and feature a 6 digit code. The first two digits are the primary modifier in these codes, starting with 02XXXX at January 1981. Like the previous format, the sequence went month by month with 03XXXX being February 1981, 04XXXX being March 1981 and so on. This system can theoretically be used up to 99XXXX (February 1989).
This system was more complex than the previous batch code system and the last four digits of the serial varied slightly (likely due to there being multiple batches being produced in a single month). The numbers still weren’t unique though and you will once again find identical numbers on two different pedals.
For a quick reference, here’s where certain years start and finish with this format:
02XXXX - 13XXXX = 1981
14XXXX - 25XXXX = 1982
26XXXX - 37XXXX = 1983
38XXXX - 49XXXX = 1984
50XXXX - 61XXXX = 1985
62XXXX - 73XXXX = 1986
74XXXX - 85XXXX = 1987
86XXXX - 97XXXX = 1988
98XXXX - 99XXXX = 1989
#3 - Sticker Serials (2 Letter, 5 Digit)
The third serial system featured two letters as a prefix to five numbers. The first letter doesn’t really matter, it’s the second letter and the first number that give the month/year away. XA0XXXX is the first code used which indicates March, 1989 (following on from the previous system) and is followed by XA1XXXX (April, 1989), XA2XXXX (May, 1989) and so on. After XA9XXXX (December, 1989) the letter changes to B and the cycle continues. This serial number can theoretically be used all the way through to the 90’s, although Japanese production ended in the mid 90’s so it’s unlikely you’ll see anything with second letter past E for a Japanese pedal.
I believe this is the first true ’Serial Number’ format with unique numbers for each pedal (rather than monthly batches).
This serial number format continued for a while longer with Taiwanese pedals until they ran out of letters at Z in 2010.
*Note:
The purpose of this article is to help you better understand HOW the serial systems work, rather than using the online decoder found here and being spoon-fed the information (not that there’s anything wrong with that!). Boss Pedal Serial Number Calculator

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Site NavigationDISCLAIMER - Absolutely no refunds. All sales are final. We cannot be held responsible if you ruin your pedal. I got ripped off by a buyer of my TR-2 mod. Said he wasn’t happy with the mod so I offered to buy the TR-2 from him. I gave him $110 in good faith. When I received the pedal it was non-functioning. He had drilled the hole for the pot in the wrong place piercing the ribbon going to the depth pot and completely pulled 4 traces from the PCB. And he wanted to know why the mod sounded bad. Because of this I will no longer issue refunds of any type on mods. If you do not have the skills required to perform the mod then please let us do the mod for you. Monte Allums

How to Identify Boss Surface Mount Pedals


With this page I will endeavor to help you identify which Boss Pedals can be modded with my kits and which ones cannot. I’ll resist stating the advantages or disadvantages of both. Use the serial number decoder on the right of this page to plug in your pedal’s Serial Number. When putting in the letters/numbers, NO SPACES. Use that date and the info below to determine whether the pedal is thru-hole (modable) or Surface Mount (Not Modable).
Boss DS-1 (Except Black 40th Anniversary DS-1) - Surface Mount Started in 2016. The Black 40th Anniversary DS-1 is Thru-Hole and is modable.
Boss BD-2 - Surface Mount Started in 2017
Boss SD-1 - Surface Mount Started in 2019
WAZA - All WAZA versions are Surface Mount and cannot be modded.
If you have more info you feel would be helpful, please contact me at tvon@monteallums.com and I will add it to this page.




Soldering Iron
You’re going to need a soldering iron. You don’t have to spend a lot for one. For an inexpensive iron click here. This is a 60 watt iron that will work fine for modding and small soldering jobs.
But if you’re planning on doing a lot of soldering I would suggest spending a little more and investing in something a little more expensive. Here is a good moderately priced iron. Click here. It’s more money but it’s build to last and will give you an iron that will last.

Electronic Multmeter
Eventually you’ll need a multimeter. For reading resistor values, voltage, etc. But that’s not all they do. You can buy one for cheap. But I recommend getting a decent one. Click here for a very inexpensive version.
But for those that want to spend a little more click here.
60/40 Solder
I recommend 60/40 solder. Works great for modding and just about any other soldering project you’ll do. You can buy some good 60/40 solder here.

Wire Strippers
I include wire with my kits and having a pair of wire stripper around is a must. Here’s a great value on a pair. Click here.

Soldering Stand
A soldering stand will come in handy. You can buy a nice one here.

Needle Nose Pliers
These are handy for reaching hard to get to parts and for pulling components out. Click here for a very inexpensive pair.

Fine Point Sharpy
I use a fine tip Sharpie to mark the solder side of the pcb. I’ll mark the solder joints of the components I will be removing. Sometimes it’s hard to remember which solder joint you’re working on. This makes it easy. You can buy them here.

Small Wire Cutters
You’ll need a pair of these to trim off the legs of resistors, capacitors, diodes, etc. once the components have been installed. You can find the here.

Jeweler’s Screwdrivers
I use these to pry small components from the pcb. Make sure you have removed all the old solder before prying the component up or you will damage the traces on the pcb. You can buy a set here.

Head Lamp Light
A head lamp light will help you to see the parts on the pcb. and frees your hands to do other things. You can buy one here.

4.50 Power Reading Glasses
Magnifying the area you’re working on is vitally important. You need to be able to see clearly where you are working. Illuminating the area and being able to see clearly what you are working on will ensure you are doing the work properly. You can buy them here.

Irwin UniBit
This Irwin UniBit drill bit is the only drill bit you will ever need for drilling holes for switches, DC Jacks, etc. This one-in-all drill bit includes all the sizes you need in one drill bit. You can buy them here.

Electrical Tape
I use electrical tape to wrap around switches and my opamp adapters to keep them from shorting on other components or the pedal casing. Most of the issues with modding can be attributed to parts and components shorting on something. You can buy a some here.

Desk Lamp
Having a well-lit area when modding or doing guitar repair is vital. I love these adjustable desk lamps because the light can be adjusted and localized to a specific area and they are portable. You can buy one here.

Screwdriver Set
You’ll need a wide variety of screwdrivers both flat head and Phillips. Here’s a very imexpensive set here.

Pliers
Here’s a set of pliers for cheap. Wire cutters, needle nose and regular pliers for one inexpensive price. You can buy them here.
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This is a great soldering station. If you’re into modding and working on your guitars and amps you’ll need a more robust soldering station. This will last you for years and comes with several tips and accessories. Click here for more info.
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Roland Serial Number Lookup

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